tdelegram
Control Rider
Bill don’t you have oxygen tanks in yours too?
Tell me what I need to know about towing
- Thread starter CBRtist
- Start date
Motofun352
Control Rider
That's the way Tom...pick on Bill and leave me alone! PS, Get off my lawn! 
tdelegram
Control Rider
Not without a step stool to help you get on it.
physicistkev
Control Rider
It’s got heat too. Which may come in handy in April. I have the Honda 2k and it came with a 3600W Ryobi that I am trying to build a quiet box for.
I feel I may be setting a MUCH higher expectation than is called for. Remember, I rode a 1990 GSXR until 2011. Keep that in mind when you think of my new toy.
BTW, at what age do I get to say “get off my lawn”?
I feel I may be setting a MUCH higher expectation than is called for. Remember, I rode a 1990 GSXR until 2011. Keep that in mind when you think of my new toy.
BTW, at what age do I get to say “get off my lawn”?
Going through the plywood is fine, but I went the extra step and put some plating underneath as well. I had some extra plates laying around, so I put one on each side of the TRS. I think some large fender washers would do the trick just as well.
All you need is the hardware they give in the kits, regular washers will serve just fine. I've racked in tens of thousands of miles between the multiple TRS's and toy haulers over the years. If your floor is so rotted that there's even a chance that plate could pull through it...well, you got far larger problems than a bike falling over.
What John and Jim said. Here are a couple finer points to add on....
If you mount it close to a "seam" in the floor - meaning where a sheet of the 3/4" floor ends, over time you may see that start to pull up - I have seen this. You can fix it by bracing underneath of the seam and fastening through the two "edges" of the two sheets of floor. I've seen it even start to twist the crossmember that the floor is screwed to.
You HAVE to at least use the large washers underneath. You need to disperse the load of those bolts when the TRS is pulling up against the floor. What Jim did is perfect. What would be even more perfect would be to weld nuts on that "extra plate" underneath, and then fasten the plate under the floor of the trailer. Then you could even remove the bolts or torque them at will without having to have somebody underneath the trailer. I did something similar - but instead machined steel plates that are mounted underneath the floor of my trailer.
If you mount it close to a "seam" in the floor - meaning where a sheet of the 3/4" floor ends, over time you may see that start to pull up - I have seen this. You can fix it by bracing underneath of the seam and fastening through the two "edges" of the two sheets of floor. I've seen it even start to twist the crossmember that the floor is screwed to.
You HAVE to at least use the large washers underneath. You need to disperse the load of those bolts when the TRS is pulling up against the floor. What Jim did is perfect. What would be even more perfect would be to weld nuts on that "extra plate" underneath, and then fasten the plate under the floor of the trailer. Then you could even remove the bolts or torque them at will without having to have somebody underneath the trailer. I did something similar - but instead machined steel plates that are mounted underneath the floor of my trailer.
HondaGalToo
Control Rider
When you're planning where to put them, just ensure that the holes you drill are far enough from the metal support beams (or whatever you call them) on the underside of the trailer floor so there is room for the large washers Pitbull supplies. I almost made that mistake.
As others have said, the washers work fine, I have many years/miles on mine with no issues. If I recall correctly, the hardware included contains nylock nuts, so they stay put. Don't over tighten, or the removable brackets that clamp in the ends of the U-shaped bar won't easily slide onto the bolt-post things; you'll know what I mean when you see the kit.
As others have said, the washers work fine, I have many years/miles on mine with no issues. If I recall correctly, the hardware included contains nylock nuts, so they stay put. Don't over tighten, or the removable brackets that clamp in the ends of the U-shaped bar won't easily slide onto the bolt-post things; you'll know what I mean when you see the kit.
chrisplm
Chris
I'll add one more little trick. If you live anywhere they salt the roads, those excess threads will rust up in no time, making it damn near impossible to ever get them off in the future. I recommend covering the threads with some grease or never-seize, or anything like that to keep the threads from getting completely corroded.
Chris has a good point.
And if you really want to do it completely - no holds barred, here's a suggestion....
Measure where you want to put the TRS and where the bolts will be. Then check underneath to make sure that the bolt holes will be equidistant from the corners of the floor to maximize strain strength. Then, use a digital caliper to measure the outside diameter of the bolts. Find a drill bit that is exactly .000001" smaller. Make a template out of plexiglass so that you can see through the template and make sure you stay where you're supposed to be. Drill the holes. Now, treat the inside of the drilled holes with zinc phosphate, and then seal with epoxy. Lightly coat the bolts with anti-seize. Now mount the TRS having somebody under the trailer to help torque the bolts to spec. Before doing anything else, now go ahead and load a bike into the TRS. Get Emerson to sit on the bike, and lean his head forward, reverse, and then side to side - then dismount. Now retorque the bolts to spec now that they've been stressed. Wipe the bolts down, then paint them with Ospho. Now, built a small aluminum box to fit under the bolts. Use flexible gasket material to go between the floor and bolts and the box, and then mount the box to secure it and seal the assembly. Then use some silicone to seal the seams.
If you've read all of this you have way too much friggin time on your hands and I don't want you near my trailer.
And if you really want to do it completely - no holds barred, here's a suggestion....
Measure where you want to put the TRS and where the bolts will be. Then check underneath to make sure that the bolt holes will be equidistant from the corners of the floor to maximize strain strength. Then, use a digital caliper to measure the outside diameter of the bolts. Find a drill bit that is exactly .000001" smaller. Make a template out of plexiglass so that you can see through the template and make sure you stay where you're supposed to be. Drill the holes. Now, treat the inside of the drilled holes with zinc phosphate, and then seal with epoxy. Lightly coat the bolts with anti-seize. Now mount the TRS having somebody under the trailer to help torque the bolts to spec. Before doing anything else, now go ahead and load a bike into the TRS. Get Emerson to sit on the bike, and lean his head forward, reverse, and then side to side - then dismount. Now retorque the bolts to spec now that they've been stressed. Wipe the bolts down, then paint them with Ospho. Now, built a small aluminum box to fit under the bolts. Use flexible gasket material to go between the floor and bolts and the box, and then mount the box to secure it and seal the assembly. Then use some silicone to seal the seams.
If you've read all of this you have way too much friggin time on your hands and I don't want you near my trailer.
You can't keep me away!
mpusch
Micah
Alright so I'll jump in with my scenario - 2010 Honda Pilot with a 4500 lb towing capacity. I realize that more matters than just towing, but it's a start. Currently pulling a harbor freight 4x8 with two bikes, but would like an enclosed. I'm thinking a 6x12 would really be the max I would do. If it's steel, single axle they weigh around 1200lbs. Aluminum would save around 250 lbs I believe. Add in two bikes and another 400lbs for gear and a pit bike. Looking around 2400lbs total.
I'm thinking that would be pretty reasonable and leave a good buffer. Obviously going to have to check tongue and gross limits.
I'm thinking that would be pretty reasonable and leave a good buffer. Obviously going to have to check tongue and gross limits.
Motofun352
Control Rider
Well, there's load capacity and then there's drag. A box trailer is going to load up that car when at speed. 4 or 6 cylinder? The 6 might be OK, mileage will go way down.
mpusch
Micah
6, 4wd. PO of the vehicle said it has the tow package (which would include a transmission cooler), but I need to double check that.